510,000 1913-S mintage — 2nd lowest in series
$37,600 Top auction price (PR69, Heritage 2017)
622 Proof dimes struck at Philadelphia
90% Silver content — 0.0723 troy oz per coin

Free 1913 Dime Value Calculator

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Step 1 — Mint Mark
Step 2 — Condition
Step 3 — Errors (check all that apply)

If you're not yet sure about your coin's mint mark or condition, there's a free 1913 Dime Coin Value Checker online tool that lets you upload coin photos and get an AI-assisted identification before you use the calculator above.

Describe Your 1913 Dime for a Detailed Assessment

Type what you see on your coin. The more detail you provide, the better the analysis.

Mention these things if you can

  • Any letter below the bow (S = San Francisco)
  • How well LIBERTY reads on the headband
  • Presence or absence of mint luster
  • Mirror-like fields (could be Proof)
  • Off-center design or crescent blank area
  • Doubled or shifted mint mark under magnification

Also helpful

  • Any cleaning marks or hairlines visible
  • Color: bright white silver, grey, or toned
  • Rim condition: full, nicked, or flat
  • Any cracks or raised lines on the coin
  • The reverse wreath and eagle detail level
  • Whether the coin is in a slab (PCGS/NGC)

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Is Your Dime a Rare 1913-S Key Date?

The 1913-S is the big prize among circulation strikes. Four quick checks can tell you if you're holding one.

1913 Barber Dime comparison: Philadelphia no mint mark (left) versus 1913-S San Francisco mint mark (right) below the ribbon bow

🔵 Common — 1913 Philadelphia (No Mint Mark)

No letter appears below the ribbon bow on the reverse. Mintage: 19,760,000. Affordable in any grade; widely available. Worth $5–$25 worn, $160–$375+ in Mint State. A solid type coin but not a key date.

— VS —

🟡 Rare — 1913-S San Francisco (S Mint Mark)

A clear "S" appears below the bow. Only 510,000 struck — second-lowest mintage in the series. Worth $35–$60 in Good condition, $150–$350+ in Fine-VF, and $320–$1,375+ in Mint State. Even a worn example carries strong premiums.

Run the 4-Point 1913-S Check

1913 Barber Dime Value Chart at a Glance

Values below are derived from recent auction results and dealer price guides including PCGS and Heritage. For a thorough step-by-step 1913 dime identification breakdown and variety guide, visit the linked reference. Highlight: the 1913-S row (gold) and Proof row (orange-red) represent the highest-premium varieties.

Variety Worn (G–VG) Circulated (F–XF) Uncirculated (MS60–64) Gem (MS65+)
1913-P (No Mint Mark) $5 – $12 $13 – $42 $90 – $250 $375+
1913-S ★ KEY DATE $35 – $60 $125 – $350 $320 – $550 $1,375+
1913 Proof (PR) $1,700+ $2,855 – $37,600+
1913-P Off-Center Strike $50 – $175 $175 – $400 $400 – $1,000+ Rare — varies
1913-S RPM (Repunched MM) $60 – $120 $200 – $500 $600+ Rare — varies

★ = Signature variety · Gold row = key date · Red row = rarest. Values are ranges from recent market data; individual coins may vary. Proof off-center and error examples may command significant additional premiums.

📱 CoinKnow is a fast on-the-go way to verify estimated values against live market comps for your 1913 Barber dime — a coin identifier and value app.

The Valuable 1913 Barber Dime Errors — Complete Guide

No individual error variety has been officially catalogued exclusively for the 1913 date, but the five collectible varieties below — including the scarce 1913-S key date and the ultra-rare Proof — all carry significant premiums over face value. Error coins that do surface on this date require professional authentication. The variety cards below cover everything from the most common issue to the rarest certified discovery.

1913-S Barber dime reverse close-up showing S mint mark below the ribbon bow Most Famous

1913-S San Francisco Key Date

$35 – $1,375+

The 1913-S stands as the acknowledged key date among circulating 1913 Barber dimes. With only 510,000 struck at the San Francisco Mint, it holds the second-lowest mintage of any non-proof circulation Barber dime — trailing only the 1895-O. The coin was produced at the end of the Barber series, when mintages were dropping and collector awareness was low.

To identify it, flip the coin to the reverse and examine directly below the ribbon bow that ties the laurel wreath. A small "S" letter — often faint on worn specimens — confirms San Francisco origin. Use a 10× loupe on heavily circulated pieces where the mark may be nearly flush with the surface.

Collectors prize the 1913-S because most survivors circulated for decades in everyday commerce. Finding one above Fine-12 is genuinely difficult, and a Mint State example is considered a serious rarity. Even a heavily worn Good-4 coin commands a premium of five to ten times that of a Philadelphia dime in the same grade — a spread that widens dramatically at higher conditions.

How to spot it Small "S" below the reverse ribbon bow, visible under a 10× loupe. On worn coins the field around the mark may be flat — look for the curved letter outline distinct from any scratches or die polish lines.
Mint mark S (San Francisco Mint only)
Notable Only ~3,000 estimated survivors of the 510,000 minted. Mint State examples are rare in PCGS and NGC census. The 1913-S is considered a series key date alongside the 1894-S, 1895-O, and 1901-S in collector reference guides.
1913 Proof Barber dime obverse showing mirror-bright fields and frosted cameo Liberty portrait Rarest

1913 Proof Barber Dime

$1,700 – $37,600+

The 1913 Proof Barber Dime was produced exclusively at the Philadelphia Mint for collectors, never intended to circulate. With a mintage of just 622, it represents one of the most coveted entries in the Barber dime Proof series. These coins were struck multiple times using highly polished dies and carefully prepared planchets, creating the characteristic mirror-bright fields and sharp relief that define classic U.S. Proof coinage.

Visually, the Proof is unmistakable: the flat fields reflect like a mirror, while the portrait of Liberty and the wreath show a frosted, cameo-like texture. On later Barber proofs (post-1901 hub modification), the contrast is typically subtle rather than deep cameo — but the reflectivity of the field distinguishes them from any circulation strike instantly.

With approximately 575 of the 622 estimated to survive (a 92% survival rate), these coins rarely come to market but command extraordinary premiums when they do. The record sale of $37,600 for a PR69 example at Heritage Auctions in August 2017 reflects how the finest-known specimens attract competitive bidding from advanced collectors. Even lower-grade PR60–PR64 examples regularly sell above $1,700.

How to spot it Mirror-bright flat fields with visible reflection, frosted design elements, and precisely struck details. Use a single light source at 45°. If you can see your reflection in the coin's background field, it may be a Proof.
Mint mark No mint mark — Philadelphia Mint only (proofs were never struck at branch mints during the Barber era)
Notable Auction record: $37,600, PR69, Heritage Auctions, August 2017. NGC population shows 143 certified Proof examples as of recent reports. Cameo contrast examples (1913 CAM) command additional premiums averaging around $1,700.
1913 Barber dime off-center strike error showing crescent-shaped blank area and shifted Liberty design Most Valuable Error

1913 Off-Center Strike

$50 – $1,000+

An off-center strike occurs when the coin blank (planchet) is not properly seated within the collar of the coining press before the dies strike. The resulting misalignment pushes the design to one side, leaving a blank crescent-shaped area on the opposite edge. The dramatic appearance of these pieces — showing a perfectly normal design on one portion and bare silver on the other — makes them immediately recognizable and popular among error collectors.

The degree of misalignment directly drives value. A coin struck just 10–15% off-center carries a modest premium. A 25–50% off-center example is significantly more collectible — provided the date "1913" remains visible, which is a firm requirement for most collectors who need to identify the coin. A 1913-S planchet struck off-center represents a compounded rarity commanding the highest premiums in the series.

Certified examples of 1913 Barber dime off-center strikes are uncommon in PCGS and NGC populations. The error must be authenticated to rule out post-mint alteration. A 25% off-center example in circulated condition has sold for approximately $175; a high-grade 50% off-center piece has reached over $500. The rarest combination — a 1913-S planchet — can approach four-figure sums in auction.

How to spot it Design is clearly not centered on the planchet — one edge shows a curved blank crescent. Check under natural light. The date must remain legible at "1913" for the coin to be fully attributable; off-center pieces without the date trade at a significant discount.
Mint mark P (Philadelphia) or S (San Francisco) — errors can occur at either mint; S-mint off-centers are rarer and more valuable
Notable A 25% off-center 1913 Barber dime sold for approximately $175 in circulated condition (2024). High-grade 50% offset examples have exceeded $500. All error examples require PCGS or NGC authentication before sale to command full premiums.
1913 Barber dime die crack error showing raised line across the coin's surface from a cracked die Best Kept Secret

1913 Die Crack & Die Cud

$30 – $500+

Die cracks and die cuds occur when the steel die used to strike coins develops fractures over the course of its working life. Each time the press strikes, tremendous pressure is exerted on the die — eventually causing hairline cracks to propagate across the die face. Metal from the planchet flows into these cracks during striking, creating thin raised lines on the finished coin's surface. Die cracks are among the most common error types found on Barber series coins.

Standard die cracks appear as thin, slightly raised lines cutting across the coin's fields or design. A more dramatic variety — the die cud — occurs when a portion of the die actually breaks away. The missing piece leaves an area of flat, raised blank metal on the coin wherever the cud fell. Cuds are distinguished from cracks by their blob-like, irregular shape and notably higher collector premiums. A rim cud (where the break extends to the edge) is the most desirable form.

Value for die-crack examples varies considerably based on the crack's severity and position. Minor hairline cracks add a small premium. A dramatic rim cud covering a significant portion of the obverse or reverse can push value into the low hundreds. The 1913 die crack and cud market is less extensively catalogued than more famous series, but certified examples at PCGS or NGC typically sell above their non-error counterparts at the same grade level.

How to spot it Look for thin raised lines running across the coin's flat fields or through lettering — use a 10× loupe and raking light. A cud appears as a raised blank area, usually at the rim, with smooth metal where design elements should be. Scratches sink into the surface; die cracks and cuds rise above it.
Mint mark P or S — die cracks can occur at either mint; no mint-specific attribution is typical unless a population study identifies a recurring die state
Notable Die cracks are the most frequently encountered Barber dime error type. Rim cuds on Barber dimes have sold at multiples of a standard example; specific 1913 cud auction records are sparse in public databases but generally align with equivalent Barber series cud premiums of 2×–5× undamaged value.
1913-S Barber dime repunched mint mark (RPM) close-up showing doubled S mint mark impression Sleeper Value

1913-S Repunched Mint Mark (RPM)

$60 – $600+

A repunched mint mark (RPM) results from the process used at early 20th-century U.S. branch mints to add the mint mark to working dies. At the San Francisco Mint, a worker would hand-punch the "S" into each working die individually. If the punch slipped, was repositioned, or struck twice at a slightly different angle, the resulting die would produce coins showing a doubled or shifted S — with a secondary ghost impression adjacent to the primary letter. This is the mechanism behind all Barber series RPM varieties.

On the 1913-S, any RPM would appear on the reverse, below the ribbon bow at the base of the wreath. Under 10× magnification, collectors look for a secondary curved line or partial letter shadow adjacent to the main "S." The shift may be north, south, east, or west relative to the primary punch. Even a modest shift creates a distinctly different die state visible to an experienced eye, and these varieties are actively sought by specialists in the Barber series.

The 1913-S RPM is a compounded rarity: you start with the already-scarce 510,000-mintage key date and add an additional error premium. While no specific CONECA or PCGS Variety Plus designation has been widely publicized for this exact date, collectors who locate and certify a 1913-S RPM would possess a coin with significant research and auction value. Even in worn condition, an authenticated 1913-S RPM would command a meaningful premium over the standard 1913-S value at the same grade level.

How to spot it Under 10× loupe, examine the "S" below the reverse bow for a secondary curved impression — a partial ghost letter or shadow adjacent to the primary "S." Rotate the coin under raking light to reveal the slight raised metal of the secondary punch. Not visible to the naked eye on most specimens.
Mint mark S (San Francisco) only — no Philadelphia RPM is possible; the Philadelphia Mint did not use a mint mark on 1913 circulation strikes
Notable Barber series RPMs are documented by the Combined Organizations of Numismatic Error Collectors of America (CONECA). A 1913-S RPM discovery would likely be catalogued as a FS-variety designation. Certified examples of 1913-S RPMs are rare in public census data; any such coin should be submitted to PCGS or NGC before sale.

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1913 Barber Dime Mintage & Survival Data

Historical view of the San Francisco Mint circa 1913, where the scarce 1913-S Barber dime was struck
Mint Mint Mark Mintage Est. Survivors Survival Rate
Philadelphia None 19,760,000 ~40,000 ~0.20%
San Francisco S 510,000 ~3,000 ~0.59%
Philadelphia (Proof) None 622 ~575 ~92%
Total 20,270,622 ~43,575
Composition note: All 1913 Barber dimes are 90% silver and 10% copper. Weight: 2.5 grams. Diameter: 17.9mm. Edge: reeded. Designer: Charles E. Barber, U.S. Mint Chief Engraver. Each coin contains 0.0723 troy ounces of pure silver. The coin's melt value at prevailing silver prices provides an absolute floor but numismatic premiums dominate pricing for all grades above heavily worn.

How to Grade Your 1913 Barber Dime

Grading determines value. LIBERTY on the headband is the primary diagnostic feature for circulated examples.

1913 Barber dime grading strip showing four condition levels: Good, Fine, Very Fine, and Mint State
Worn — Good to VG (G-4 to VG-10)

Letters Gone, Outline Remains

LIBERTY is entirely worn away or only faintly traceable in the headband. The portrait is smooth with few remaining hair details. The rim is present but may be weak in spots on the reverse. This is the most common surviving condition for the 1913-S. Worth $5–$12 for Philadelphia; $35–$60 for 1913-S.

Circulated — Fine to XF (F-12 to XF-45)

LIBERTY Readable, Wear Visible

In Fine-12, all letters of LIBERTY are visible but soft; the "ER" and "Y" are often the weakest. At XF-40, the full LIBERTY is sharp with clear edges on the headband, and hair curls above the ear retain detail. The reverse wreath remains well-defined at XF. Worth $13–$42 for Philadelphia; $125–$350 for 1913-S.

Uncirculated — MS 60 to MS 64

No Wear, Luster Present

No wear whatsoever — look for original mint luster (silky cartwheel effect under direct light). Contact marks and bag marks are acceptable in lower Mint State grades. Philadelphia dimes are typically frosty white; 1913-S pieces may show prooflike fields. Worth $90–$250 for Philadelphia; $320–$550 for 1913-S at this range.

Gem — MS 65 and Above

Exceptional Eye Appeal

Strong luster, minimal contact marks, and above-average strike. The 1913-P has been certified as high as MS66+ by PCGS (no MS67 known). The 1913-S in MS-65 is a genuine rarity. Eye appeal — including natural toning — plays a major role at this level. Worth $375+ for Philadelphia; $1,375+ for 1913-S. Proofs in PR65–PR69 range from $2,000 to $37,600+.

Pro tip — color and strike designation: Philadelphia-mint 1913 Barber dimes are usually well-struck and frosty white in Mint State. Avoid cleaned examples at all grades — hairlines visible under a 10× loupe indicate cleaning, which can cut value by 30–60%. Naturally toned coins in original, unaltered condition command a premium over blast-white examples, especially at MS63 and above. For the 1913-S, even a naturally toned Fine-12 specimen often outperforms a cleaned VF at auction.

🔍 CoinKnow lets you match your coin's surface details against graded reference examples to cross-check your condition assessment before buying or selling — a coin identifier and value app.

Where to Sell Your Valuable 1913 Dime

The right venue depends on your coin's grade and variety. A worn Philadelphia dime and a Mint State 1913-S need very different approaches.

Best for key dates & high grades

🏛️ Heritage Auctions

Heritage is the world's largest numismatic auction house and the best venue for the 1913-S, Proof, and high-grade Mint State examples. Competition between advanced collectors drives prices to their ceiling. The $37,600 Proof record was set here. Expect a seller's commission; lots under $500 may not be accepted. Best for coins worth $300+.

Best for mid-grade & raw coins

🛒 eBay

eBay reaches the widest buyer audience for circulated 1913-P dimes and mid-grade examples. Review recently sold 1913 dime prices and current eBay market listings to price your coin competitively. Sold comps are visible via the "Sold Items" filter. Consider professional photos and a PCGS or NGC holder for coins above MS62 — slabbed examples typically achieve higher final prices than raw.

Best for quick, in-person sale

🏪 Local Coin Shop

A local dealer will buy your coin quickly and without fees, but will offer wholesale price (typically 50–70% of retail for common dates, higher for key dates they want). Useful if speed matters more than maximum price. For a worn 1913-P worth $10, the convenience is worth it. For a 1913-S worth $150+, compare multiple dealer offers.

Best for community pricing feedback

💬 Reddit (r/Coins4Sale)

The numismatic subreddits (r/coins4sale, r/coinidentification) are useful for getting quick community opinions on grade and value before committing to a sale channel. Not ideal for high-value transactions, but excellent for getting honest collector feedback on cleaned coins, identifying oddities, and setting realistic expectations before listing elsewhere.

💡 Get it graded first — for anything worth over $100: A PCGS or NGC holder transforms a "raw" 1913-S from a coin a buyer must trust into one they can bid on with confidence. The grading fee pays for itself quickly on key dates and Mint State examples. For the 1913-P in Fine or below, raw sales on eBay are efficient and cost-effective — grading fees would exceed the coin's value.

Frequently Asked Questions — 1913 Dime Value

How much is a 1913 dime worth?
The value depends heavily on mint mark and condition. A 1913 Philadelphia (no mint mark) dime in Good condition averages around $5–$12, while a 1913-S in Good is worth $35–$60. In Mint State, the Philadelphia issue reaches $160–$375+. The 1913-S in MS-65 can exceed $1,375. Proof issues command significantly more, with some realizing over $2,000. Always check the reverse for an "S" mint mark — it's the single biggest value factor.
How do I tell a 1913-S dime from the Philadelphia issue?
Check the reverse of the coin, directly below the ribbon bow tying the wreath. A small "S" mint mark indicates San Francisco; a blank space means Philadelphia. On heavily worn specimens the "S" can be faint, so use a 10× loupe or jeweler's magnifier. The difference is substantial — a common Philadelphia piece worth $10 versus a 1913-S worth $40 or more in the same grade. Never assume no mint mark without magnification.
What is the rarest 1913 dime variety?
The 1913 Proof Barber Dime with only 622 struck is the rarest by mintage. Of those, an estimated 575 survive — a remarkably high survival rate since proofs were made for collectors, not circulation. The top recorded sale is $37,600 for a PR69 example at Heritage Auctions in 2017. Among circulation strikes, the 1913-S with 510,000 produced is the key date, with Mint State examples being genuinely scarce and highly prized.
What errors exist on the 1913 Barber dime?
No errors are specifically catalogued as confirmed for the 1913 date alone, but collectors should watch for: off-center strikes (most valuable when date remains visible), clipped planchet errors (a curved chunk of rim missing), die cracks and die cuds (raised lines across the surface), and repunched mint marks on the 1913-S (a doubled or shifted "S" visible under magnification). Any certified error example carries a strong premium over standard values.
How do I grade a 1913 Barber dime?
Start with the word "LIBERTY" on Liberty's headband — it's the highest-relief point and the first area to wear. Good (G-4): letters gone, outline visible. Fine (F-12): all letters readable but soft. Very Fine (VF-20): most letters sharp, hair detail above ear present. Extremely Fine (EF-40): full sharp LIBERTY, light cheek wear. Mint State (MS): no wear at all — look for original luster and bag marks only. Proofs show mirror fields and frosted design elements.
What was the mintage of the 1913-S Barber dime?
The San Francisco Mint struck 510,000 Barber dimes in 1913. This gives it the second-lowest mintage of any circulation-strike Barber dime (only the 1895-O is lower among branch mint issues). Most 1913-S coins circulated heavily and survive in Good to Fine grades. Coins above VF-20 are genuinely scarce, and true Mint State examples are rare, with relatively few certified by PCGS and NGC in any Mint State grade.
Is the 1913 Barber dime made of silver?
Yes. All Barber dimes, including the 1913 issue, are composed of 90% silver and 10% copper. The coin weighs 2.5 grams and measures 17.9mm in diameter. Each contains approximately 0.0723 troy ounces of pure silver. At typical silver spot prices the melt value is a few dollars, but the numismatic (collector) value far exceeds melt for most examples — especially the 1913-S and any Proof or error pieces.
What is the top auction price for a 1913 Barber dime?
The top recorded price for a 1913 Barber dime is $37,600, achieved by a PR69 Proof example at Heritage Auctions in August 2017. Among circulation strikes, the record is $7,344 for an MS64 coin sold at Legend Rare Coin Auctions in February 2023. GreatCollections has recorded sales as high as $5,238 for the date. These represent the finest-known specimens and are well above typical market prices for common grades.
Should I get my 1913 dime graded by PCGS or NGC?
Professional grading is strongly recommended for the 1913-S and any Proof or error examples. A 1913-S in Fine raw might trade at a discount due to skepticism about authenticity or grade accuracy; a PCGS or NGC slab provides buyer confidence and improves liquidity significantly. For a common 1913-P in worn condition worth $5–$20, grading fees may exceed the coin's value — in that case, selling raw is more practical.
Where is the mint mark on a 1913 Barber dime?
The mint mark is located on the reverse (tails side) of the coin, directly below the ribbon bow that ties the laurel wreath. The San Francisco Mint used a small "S." Philadelphia coins of this era carried no mint mark. On heavily worn pieces the "S" can be nearly invisible — always examine with magnification before concluding a coin is from Philadelphia, as the value difference between the two is significant at every grade level.

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